For Latest Work Updates & Details, Follow us

  


 

FAQ

 

About Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM

What is Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises?
Does Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM treats all kinds of objects?
How can I get a cost estimate for treatment?
Can I get a schedule for Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprise’s preservation education programs?
Does Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises appraise books or manuscript materials?
Will Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises restore or appraise my books?
Will Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises deacidify my book collections?
What If I have other questions about preservation of library and archives, Materials?


About Preservation

This list includes some of the more frequent questions posed to Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM staff by callers. The answers given here provide basic information, but it is important to remember that every situation is different. If you are unsure about how to proceed, it is always best to contact a preservation professional for further advice. Contact Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises

How can I remove the musty smell from old books?
How can I get rid of the smell of mildew in my books?
Our basement flooded and the pages of my high school yearbook are stuck together - what can I do?
How should I store my family photographs and papers?
How long do laser-printed documents last?
I opened one of my books and saw a tiny bug crawling in it - what should I do?
We have some old wooden bookcases in the library - how can we treat them To make them safe for our historical collections?
I have some old leather books whose bindings are dried and cracked - Should I put leather dressing on them?
How should I store my books?
How should I display documents or works of art on paper?
Can I save wet books? What if my books are moldy?
How can I preserve my family photographs for my grandchildren?
I have an infestation. How can I get rid of bugs in my books?
How can I preserve my newspaper clippings?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

About Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM


What is Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises?

Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises is a private conservation center whose mission is to improve the preservation programs of libraries, archives, museums, and other historical and cultural organizations; to provide the highest quality conservation services to institutions that cannot afford in-house conservation facilities or that require specialized expertise; and to provide leadership to the preservation field. The Center provides preservation and education and consulting services as well as conservation treatment see services offered.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

Does Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises treat all kinds of objects?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises specializes in the conservation treatment of paper-based materials. These include books, documents, manuscripts, photographs, and works of art on paper (prints, watercolors, etc.), wallpaper, and unusual objects such as globes. Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises does not treat textiles, oil paintings, furniture, sculpture, or other non-paper-based materials. See the services offered.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

How can I get a cost estimate for treatment?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprise’s conservators must examine the object to be treated before a treatment proposal and cost estimate can be given. Costs depend on the condition of the material and the type of treatment that is needed, and each object is unique. Objects can be brought to Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises for examination or they can be shipped. Once an object has been examined, the conservator provides an estimate that sets out options for treatment. The course of treatment must be approved by the client before conservation treatment can begin.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

Can I get a schedule for Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprise’s preservation education programs?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprise’s does not offer a regularly scheduled series of workshops, but programs on basic preservation, disaster planning, book repair, photograph preservation, and preservation reformatting are offered periodically. Workshops on other preservation topics can be designed to meet an organization's needs. Contact Anand Akolkar, for more information.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

Does Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises appraise books or manuscript materials?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises does not offer appraisal services for books or manuscripts it deals with the conservation, preservation restoration of documents.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

Will Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises restore or appraise my books?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises will restore but not appraise any of the collections.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

Will Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises deacidify my book collections?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises will deacidify any of the book collection it receives, as its motto is to conserve preserve and restore for the future.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

What If I have other questions about preservation of library and archives, Materials?
Akolkar's OM SAT NAAM Enterprises will be pleased to answer all queries in the matter.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP









About Preservation



How can I remove the musty smell from old books?
There is no guaranteed way to remove the musty smell from old books, but there are several strategies that may be successful. A musty smell is most Often noted in books that have been exposed to high relative humidity and
May, have been moldy or mildewed in the past One strategy involves creating an enclosed chamber. This is most easily done by using two plastic garbage cans, one large (with a lid) and one Small. An odor-absorbing material should be placed in the bottom of the larger can. Materials that absorb odors include baking soda, charcoal the object to be "deodorized" should be placed in the smaller can, which is then placed inside the larger can. The lid should then be placed on the larger can and the chamber should be left for some time. You will need to monitor the material periodically since the time required to reduce the odors will vary from object to object.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

How can I get rid of the smell of mildew in my books?
The smell comes from biological growth on books that are stored in damp, dark, cool locations. Check for active or dormant mold. Remove the materials to a drier (but still cool) environment, and make sure that plenty of air is circulating around them. These conditions should render the biological growth dormant. If the mildewed materials are stored for an extended period under such conditions, the smell will eventually disappear of its own accord. The same technique can be applied to dry books affected with active mold. If you can see mold growth, DO NOT attempt to clean it off under the materials are thoroughly dry. Premature cleaning attempts will grind the mold into the covers or paper and cause stains that are often impossible to remove. A short exposure to sunlight and circulating air outdoors also may help to rid the books of the mildew smell. Remember, though, that light damages paper-based materials. Drying materials in the sunlight may result in some darkening or fading of book materials and paper, so select this approach only with materials for which such damage is considered acceptable.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

Our basement flooded, and now the pages of my high school yearbook are Stuck together - what can I do?
Unfortunately, there may be little you can do. Most yearbooks are printed on glossy coated paper; the same paper is used in many art books. When coated paper gets wet and then begins to dry, the coating on facing pages sticks together. Once this occurs, it generally cannot be reversed. Freezing within about 6 hours, followed by vacuum freeze drying, can be Successful in saving this type of material. The vacuum freeze drying must be carried out by a commercial service, however, and is relatively expensive.
In many cases, the pages are only partially stuck together. If this is the case, you can try to gently separate the pages with a Teflon-coated folder or micro spatula (available from conservation suppliers). There will be some loss in areas where the pages were stuck, but other parts of the information may be salvageable. Another strategy is to locate another copy of the yearbook. If you cannot purchase or otherwise acquire one, you might borrow a copy and have a good-quality photocopy made. The photocopy could then be bound by a library binder. Some public libraries maintain collections of local school annuals It is also possible to bring the item to a conservator for an evaluation. A conservator may or may not be able to improve the object's condition. If treatment is feasible, it will likely be time-consuming and expensive, so this option should usually be limited to items with high monetary or sentimental value.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

How should I store my family photographs and papers?
Family photographs and papers should be protected from excessive heat, humidity and pollution. Attics and basements are the worst storage areas because of the extreme heat and humidifies normally found in those areas. It is better to store family collections on the upper shelf of a closet in the main part of the house where temperature and relative humidity tend to be relatively stable. Photographs and papers should be protected from light. Color photographs are especially vulnerable to deterioration. Exhibited items should not be placed in direct sun or in bright areas, and it is best not to exhibit any particular photograph or document permanently. Important materials that will be kept over the long term should be stored in archival-quality enclosures. For papers, this usually means lignin-free buffered folders and boxes. For photographs, stable polyester enclosures are usually best. Conservation suppliers offer both polyester pages with pockets for photos and polyester and paper photo corners that can be used to mount photos on neutral pH album pages. Never use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic pages or "magnetic" photo albums (these actually hold the photos in place with adhesive that is damaging) Videotapes are also vulnerable. They have a limited life expectancy, and should be copied onto new tape every 10-15 years
If a clipping is being retained solely for informational purposes, a simple preservation strategy is to photocopy the newspaper clipping onto archival-quality paper. Newsprint paper is extremely poor quality and will continue to deteriorate even if it is non aqueous deacidify or washed some inks are soluble in commercially available de-acidification sprays, and some colors may change when they are alkalized. As a result, any document to be treated should be tested before it is sprayed. Photographs should never be deacidified.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

How long do laser-printed documents last?
The stability of a laser-printed document depends largely on the quality of paper used and the degree to which the toner adheres to the paper. Archival-quality paper should be used. Among other things, this standard requires the paper to have a pH of 7.5 or above and a calcium carbonate content of over 2% (calcium carbonate is a buffering material that raises the pH of the paper and fights against future acid deterioration). Many papers on the market today meet the standard. A toner with a stable pigment such as carbon black should be used, and the printer should be regularly maintained and serviced.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

I opened one of my books and saw a tiny bug crawling in it - what should I do?
You may be seeing booklice (also known as psocids) or silverfish. Booklice are extremely small, about 1-2 mm long. Silverfish are larger (up to 12.5 mm) and over time can eat holes in paper. The presence of silverfish and psocids often indicates a humidity problem in a storage area. If booklice or silverfish are noted, the first step should be to inspect collections to determine whether the problem is widespread or isolated. If only a few insects are seen, try to address the problem by reducing the humidity in the space and isolating and vacuuming the affected materials. You can monitor the area for additional insect activity with sticky traps available from local hardware stores, University Products, and other suppliers. If these measures are not successful, or if the problem is widespread, additional measures may be necessary. Non-chemical measures are preferable to chemical treatments. It is best to contact a preservation professional to discuss appropriate options.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

We have some old wooden bookcases in the library - how can we treat them to make them safe for our historical collection?
Many libraries have built-in wooden shelving that is used for the storage of historical collections. From the perspective of preservation, it is best to store collections on metal shelving, since wood shelving can give off damaging pollutants. If wood shelving must be used, there are several steps that can be taken to minimize damage to collections. None of these actions will provide complete protection, however. All wood shelves should be sealed; currently the best choice for sealant is moisture-borne polyurethane. Oil-based paints and stains should be avoided. Any sealant should be tested for chemical stability before use. In addition, shelves can be lined with museum board, polyester film, glass, Plexiglas, or an inert metallic laminate material to prevent materials from coming into direct contact with the wood. If collections must be stored in closed wooden cabinets or shelving, the cabinets should be aired out several times a year to minimize buildup of damaging fumes.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

I have some old leather books with dried and cracked bindings - should put leather dressing on them?
The use of leather dressings (neat’s-foot oil, lanolin, etc.) was widespread in libraries for many years, but the conservation community now recommends that it be avoided in most cases. Research and experience have shown that leather dressings can have some undesirable side effects. Damaging, disfiguring effects can include discoloration, staining, and stickiness of the leather, wicking of oil into adjoining materials including text blocks, and increased danger of mold growth on treated materials. Leather dressing can be appropriate for some objects, but it should be used very sparingly and advice should be sought from a conservator before using it.
The leather on my books is worn and scuffed. Should I oil my leather books? Leather dressings were at one time thought to be useful in extending the life of leather bindings. Experience has shown, however, that the benefit is primarily cosmetic and that inexpert use of leather dressing does more harm than good. Studies have shown that leather dressing can cause the leather to dry out over time. Leather may become stiffer, accompanied by darkening or surface staining. If too much dressing is applied too frequently, the surface of the leather may become sticky and attract dust and the oil stains and deteriorates the paper Consolidates l can be applied by book conservators to bind dry rotted leather and keep it from offsetting onto other books or text blocks. For handling purposes, polyester film jackets can be made for books.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP














How should I store my books?
Store books out of direct sunlight and where air can circulate freely. Store Them away from windows and don't put them on shelves against outside walls Store books on flat, smooth shelves that are strong enough to support their weight. Ideally, books should not be in contact with unsealed wood because it can release damaging acidic vapors. Line shelves with acid free board to prevent this problem. Stand books vertically side by side. Keep similar sizes together: small books next to small books, and large books next to large books. Use bookends to keep the books from falling over, and be sure they are high enough to support the books completely.
Avoid storing books in an attic or basement because attics get too hot and basements get too damp. Both are also subject to rapid changes in temperature and humidity levels. Keep books out from under plumbing and water pipes; water damage from these sources is all too common. To protect books with monetary or sentimental value, keep them in custom-fitted archival boxes made from high-quality materials.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

How should I display documents or works of art on paper?
Protect such items by hinging them into mats that have both a back board and a window board. Ask your picture framer for museum-quality mat board. To be of museum quality, the board must be free of acid (alkaline, ideally pH 7 to pH 9) and colored with non-damaging dyes that don't run if they get wet. The bocould be 100% cotton rag or chemically purified wood pulp (high alpha-cellulose and negative to lignin). Poor quality mats can damage the pictures they are supposed to protect. The most common damage is dark yellow staining, particularly around the edges of the window mat that frames the picture. Known as "mat burn," the stain is caused by migration of acidic components in the board. Mat burn can discolor an item dramatically and is also an indication of chemical damage to the paper.

The method used to mount the document or picture in the mat is critical. It should be attached to the backboard of the mat with long-fibered paper hinges (Japanese paper, usually) and cooked starch paste. Although a straightforward procedure, accomplishing it successfully can be tricky, so it's best to leave the task to a trained conservator or professional picture framer. A, less complicated, but still archaically sound, alternative insecure the item in the mat with photo corners. High-quality polyester or paper photo corners can be purchased from conservation suppliers. NEVER hinge pictures with pressure-sensitive tape (including masking tape, "invisible" tape, quick-release tape, cellophane tape, double-stick tape, and the so-called "archival" tapes). NEVER use rubber cement, stick glue, spray adhesives, or dry-mount adhesives. Do not use brown paper tape (moisture-activated gummed adhesive) or animal glues. All tapes and adhesives of these types will stain the paper and may cause inks and colors to "bleed." Many lose their adhesive properties and fall off with age, leaving behind a residue that is unsightly, damaging to the item, and difficult (or impossible) to remove. If removal of such adhesives and the stains they cause is possible, the work should only be entrusted to a trained conservator. Improper treatment can damage items irrevocably, greatly reducing their beauty and value. Use a good frame that is well-constructed and has mitred joints. The frame should be sturdy enough to support the weight of the object. Glass or acrylic should be used as glazing. Glazing should never touch the work of art. The preservation purpose of a window mat or spacer is to prevent such contact. All light, natural and artificial, damages paper-based materials. Sunlight and fluorescent lights are particularly damaging. Light damage can be reduced by using ultraviolet-filtering glazing. Acrylic glazing should not be used in the framing of pastels, charcoal drawings, or pictures with flaking pigments because they tend to develop a static charge that can lift powdery media right off the paper.
If the document or art work to be framed needs conservation treatment, a conservator should be consulted before any work is undertaken. This is particularly the case with items that have high monetary, historic, or sentimental value.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

Can I save wet books? What if my books are moldy?
Yes. Books can be air-dried, or frozen and then dried at a later date. The most important thing to do to save your wet books is to take action immediately, or as soon as possible, after they have gotten wet. In warm and humid conditions, mold can begin to grow within 24-48 hours after the materials have gotten wet. Stabilize and air dry as much of the collection as possible. What cannot beat dried in 48 hours, can probably be frozen to stabilize and dry at a later time. Check with a conservator. Fan volumes open and stand them on the top or bottom edge on an absorbent material which is changed as it becomes wet. As the book dries turn it upside-down. Humidity levels should be maintained below 75% RH with dehumidifiers. Low temperatures will assist in the avoidance of mold problems. Increasing air circulation will dry out most items efficiently. Use electric fans to provide maximum air circulation, but do not point them directly at the drying books. Weather permitting, set up a drying space outdoors, under cover. Mold is the greatest risk and hazard, both to books and to humans. If you suspect or see mold, or think that the water may have been contaminated with sewage or harmful chemicals, you must wear protective clothing, gloves, and a mask while salvaging your books. Also, take strict precautions to protect your skin and lungs. If mold is present, seek professional advice and proceed with caution. If any negative health effects are observed, contact a doctor, mycologist, or both, before proceeding. Local colleges and universities can help you find a mycologist.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

How can I preserve my family photographs for my grandchildren?
Store photographs at 25 degrees C. and 30-40% relative humidity (HR) in a closet or air-conditioned room. Don't store them in the attic or basement. Higher humidity levels speed up deterioration; very low humidity may cause prints to crack, peel or curl. Storage at lower temperatures is particularly advised for contemporary color prints.
Avoid exposing photographic materials to anything containing sulfur dioxide, fresh paint fumes, plywood, cardboard, and fumes from cleaning supplies. Store photographs in proper enclosures made of plastic or paper materials which are free of sulfur, acids, and peroxides. Preservation quality paper storage enclosures are available in buffered (pH 7.5-9.5) and unbuffered stock. Stable plastic enclosures are made of uncoated polyester film uncoated cellulose triacetate, polyethylene, and polypropylene. All materials used for storing photographic collections should pass the PAT (Photographic Activity Test) and will be marked as such by suppliers of high quality photographic enclosures. If relative humidity cannot be controlled consistently below 80%, plastic enclosures should not be used because photographs may stick to the slick surface of plastic.
Avoid acidic paper envelopes and sleeves, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic, rubber bands, paper clips, and poor-quality adhesives such as pressure-sensitive tapes and rubber cement. Buffered enclosures are preferred for deteriorated photographic prints on poor-quality mounts. Avoid the cheap, readily available "drugstore type" photo albums. Instead buy albums made of high quality materials. Generally, use photo corners and only those materials that are known to have passed the PAT tests. Particularly, avoid albums with sticky adhesive pages.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

I have an infestation. How can I get rid of bugs in my books?
Identify the bug if possible (trap one with sticky pest strips) and try to answer the following questions that a professional will ask you: Is the insect already dead or alive and how many insects are there? How many books are affected and with what kind of damage? Have you seen insects like this elsewhere in your home? Where have the books been stored and are they damp or moldy? How valuable and old are the books? Isolate the affected books by placing them in a tightly sealed plastic bag. Seek assistance from an entomologist. A local university or state extension service should be able to put you in touch with one. Fumigation must be performed by professionals under controlled conditions. Non-chemical preventive measures against insects include: Seal entry points including windows, doors and put filters on vents. Keep room temperatures and humidity levels low (insects need water, too). Keep the environment clean and dusted, and don't store books near food or rubbish, ET Desiccant dusts like diatomaceous earth or silica, can be used around the perimeters of a room, but will not be effective for insects with a winged portion of the life cycle.

^ ^ ^  Back to TOP

How can I preserve my newspaper clippings?
Newspaper is made from wood fibers and it will turn dark and brittle very quickly, particularly when exposed to light. Although it can be chemically treated to slow down further deterioration, many of the treatments will also darken the paper. Newspaper will damage other paper or photographic materials with which they are stored if the other items are not protected from them. The only way to preserve the original is to store them properly: Place clipping in a polyester film folder with a sheet of alkaline buffered paper behind it. Put the polyester folders in file folders and boxes of high-quality acid-free, alkaline buffered materials .Store in a cool and dry location, such as a closet in an air-conditioned room.
 

Get into our network
   

Name of Vendor : OM SATNAAM ENTERPRISES

Copyright © 2011 OmPaperConservation.com All rights reserved.

Website Designed and Developed By Manish SS Hanumante